 It
takes time to see Istanbul properly, since examples of its 2,000-year-old past can
be difficult to find amid the chaos of the present. Most visitors go straight to
the Sultanahmet district, the oldest part
of the city, where there are at least some remnants of Byzantine Constantinople,
such as Haghia Sophia (Aya Sofya), among the
splendours of Imperial Ottoman architecture, such as Topkapı
Palace and the Blue Mosque. Sultanahmet
is, however, a ‘tourist quarter' with the usual irritations of badgering touts and
crowds of people and it is not the only historic part of the city.
The city centre, including the areas referred to as ‘the old city' and ‘the new
city', which are separated by the estuary of the Golden Horn, is located on the
European side of Istanbul, on the western side of the Bosphorus Strait.
Northwest of Sultanahmet lies the area of Beyazıt,
focused around the famous Kapalı Çarşı (Covered or Grand
Bazaar), while directly north from Sultanahmet, following the tramway,
visitors will quickly hit the noisy, chaotic Eminönü docks
on the Golden Horn.
From here, across the Galata Bridge, the area
beginning at Karaköy port, running up to the landmark Galata Tower and then up through
Beyoğlu and Taksim, was for centuries the designated
residence of foreigners, including Italian, Greek and Levantine traders.
The Tünel climbs the hill from Karaköy port to the start of
Istiklal Caddesi, a mile-long pedestrian thoroughfare leading up to Taksim Square, the heart of modern Istanbul
and home to much of its nightlife.
Mosques are almost always open to visitors, outside prayer times, although shorts
and sleeveless clothes should not be worn. Shoes are left outside and women will
be loaned a shawl to covers arms and hair. Visitors should not take photographs
of women wearing the traditional black çarsaf, as this is forbidden. Parents of
little boys in their full circumcision regalia will usually allow photos, although
a small gift of money to the child is traditional.
Istanbul's museum system is confusing, as each is run by different ministries, municipal
authorities or private owners. Entrance charges or opening hours can change suddenly.
Check with tourist offices for up-to-date opening times and prices.
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